Skeletoncoast
With the malaria in me I crossed the Skeletoncoast at the March 22nd the first time. But it was only one in haste and the camera I couldn't hold in my hand. It was difficult for me to take a picture. But I got a second chance and I crossed the Skeletoncoast for a second time. My passport lay in Sesfontein and I must drive this 550 km in the north to get back it.
After the time in the hospital I needed a little bit rest. The doctor checked me at the Wednesday and I asked him, what can I do and have I enough power for so some things. I could do what I would like. I'm ready and O.K.. In German we say "Volle Pulle" - full power.
Now, so I went to Sesfontein at the Thursday and I intended to drive this 1100 km at one day. I had many plans for the next days but not so much time. I started 6 o'clock in the morning and in the darkness. Fog laid over the Skeletoncoast. I drove to the North and arrived the gate to the Skeleton park after 150 km.
The gate to the Skeletoncoast from the side of Swakopmund. Former ran aground many ships here. The poeple lost the orientation in the fog and the ships went of ground. For the shipwrecked poeple was the chance not the best and no hope of rescue. Here in this dusty area, wide away of the next poeple and fresh water, is it heavy and difficult to survive and the death wait of him in his near.
I paid my fee and the watchman ask me where I will go. "To Sesfontein and back again." "You come back today?" asked he me doubtful. I said yes and he was a lucky man. He asked me, it's possible to bring a bag with fresh food for him from his wife in Sesfontein. And however I'm, I would like to do this for him. I asked him, where I could find his wife and we agreed, I will come back in the evening. And he said, it is possible. The gate is every time open for me.
So I drove my car over the dirt roads in the Skeletoncoast, enjoyed the nice and warm weather. The sun crackled on me. Blue sky. Left the Atlantic, right the dune and I in the middle.
A broad desert stripe and to the inside of the land came the mountain. At first also so dusty and scanty. Only sand and rocks. But after this 50 to 100 km wide desert strip will be come a friendlier landscape and little plant fight against the desert and the earth get back the green life.
In a fast time I crossed the Park. I came in greener landscapes behind the dusty and sandy coast strip. I saw the mountain again. The green grass grew ample again. And soon came back all the vegetation in your magnificence.
Indeed very sensitive and soft, but it was pleasant to see this green after 250 km sand- and desert strips. The gate is open for me all the time and so I saw not the reason of a fast drive time. I know the direction and the darkness isn't a problem for the back tour. I got back my passport in Sesfontein and was looking for Whity's wife. I found she fast in the Old German Fort, there I stood one week before. But Whity's wife wasn't present, so could drink a fresh draught beer and then I went to Whity's wife and got a plastic bag with the fresh food. The back tour was beginning 3 o'clock.
The great place of the village in the near of Whity's house. The black people live here and they works in the Old Fort or have cattle's and live of the breeding.
Half past 5 I arrived the gate to the Skeletoncoast. But the watchman said no, crossing not possible. I said this isn't the possibility. I have a bag for Whity and we agreed the cross. I couldn't cross the gate and the Skeletoncoast. Well, I had a problem and scolded loud. The first, I must cross the incalculable labyrinth behind the coast and this in the darkness. And the second problem was, I need petrol in some time and petrol station are not so much here. I had petrol for 500 km and the first I needed for the last 100 km - rest 400 km. For the shortest way I had enough, but when I can't find this way ... then is the way to the next petrol station to long? And when I stay and I had a empty petrol tank? In the darkness and in the middle of the desert? Without petrol.
I drove back. Soon I needed light, but in my car the light was destroyed. I couldn't see the speedometer and so I was sitting in my car with map, compass, GPS and headlamp. I didn't count the km I count the minutes for a special speed. The watch was the only one with light in my car. I found in the darkness the Burnt Mountain, the Twyfelfontein Rock Engravings (naturally without the engravings) and the Organ Pipes but I couldn't found the smallest way to the coast. Now I drove 270 km and I had only a rest for 230 km. Not enough. I must found a petrol station. The chance was minimal of a open time. I arrived a station and it was closed half hour before. So I slept in the Jeep and was the first in the morning 5 o'clock at the petrol station. In the darkness I drove in the direction to the Skeletoncoast. The looking for the way was the same as in the yesterdays evening. But slow came the brightness and in some time the sun trough the fog of the morning. Fresh air. And the wind hadn't blew the dust in the air. Now and then came a ray of the sun trough the clouds. It was a nice time and a little compensation of the last night.
I brought the food bag to Whity ant told him the story of the last day. He was angry about his college. But now we couldn't change it. For me was this a long way and cost me a lot of time. Well, I arrived Swakopmund after 28 hours.
The married couple Dresselhaus, there where I lived in Swakopmund the last days, was in care when I didn't come back in the evening. But they knew, that I have all things in my car for a overnight stay. But in the noon, they had given alarm, said they. But I was back and fell tired in the bed.